Devils River, Texas - Public Access is in Danger of Being Eliminated.

Bad news for Texas paddlers. TPWD is trying to move the Devils River State Natural Area 13 miles down river. This will eliminate public riverside campsites on the devils river and almost certainly make it impossible to make any downriver trip.

In Texas all rivers (that average 30 feet from the mouth to the point in question) are public property. The problem on the Devils is accessing this public property. Right now there are only 3 public access points along the Devils river. Bakers Crossing on Hwy 163. The current Devils River State Natural Area… and along Amisted Lake. These access points are few and far between and land owners along the river have a reputation of extreme hatred for paddles (with rumors of some landowners even shooting at paddlers on the river). Right now if you put in at Bakers Crossing you do not come across a "public" campsite until you reach the State Natural area 15 miles downriver. If the TPWD proposal is approved there will not be any public campsites available for 28 miles. This makes it impossible to make any type of downriver trip on the Devils.

If anyone ever wants to make another paddle trip down the Devils River action is needed. I am late receiving this information but there is a Public Hearing today in Del Rio at 6:00 pm at the Del Rio Civic Center in the Mesquite Room on 1915 Veteran’s Blvd.

There will be another public hearing on Oct. 26th in San Antonio at 6:00 pm in the Central public Libaray at 600 Soledad.

You can also e-mail Ted Hollingsworth at ted.hollingsworth@tpwd.state.tx.us and let him know this is a bad idea.

TPWD claims moving the ranch will increase public access stating the new property has more river frontage. River Frontage is not the problem…this new property is along the headwaters of Lake Amisted. Lake Amisted already has great public access. Moving the park will eliminate all public river access. And there just aren’t anymore rivers in Texas with the quality of the Devils River.

TPWD also states they will be working with landowners, stakeholders, and PADDLERS to improve access to the Devils River….this will not happen for paddlers if the property is moved. As it is now the current state natural area has placed every obstacle to try and keep paddlers off the river including forbidding using the park as a take out point and forcing paddlers to carry their boats and gear by hand 1.5 miles to the river front. This proposal is a ploy to eliminate the existence of public paddlers on the Devils. If you ever want to see this Texas oasis take action now.

Recently a friend took a trip down the Devil’s camping overnight at the State Natural Area. That night he was issued 7 citations by one of the park rangers who acted very hostile toward the idea of paddlers. Having arrived one night earlier than expected my friend asked if he could camp there an extra night so as not to arrive at the take out a day early (and thus miss his shuttle appointment.) The ranger refused... forcing them to leave in the morning without knowing if they would have a shuttle available or not. The Ranger the proceeded to verbally curse Texas Monthly Magazine for “Publicizing” the natural beauty of the river and “inviting” people to paddle the last truly wild river in Texas. The Ranger insinuated that the Magazine was going to ruin their private oasis. Can you believe it? A park ranger?…Mad that people might come enjoy Public Land.

It seems to me that the Park is in on this deal. Here is a copy of the Letter sent out by TPWD

In 1993 John Hoyt made the fist public paddle down the Devils River after a court ruling that sateted land owners did NOT own the river bed. Here is what John has said (at Bigbendchat.com) regarding my post of this bad news.

Sounds like a disaster in the making. Some of you might remember that I posted my story of our 1993 canoe voyage from Baker's Crossing all the way to Lake Amistad. That was the first "legal' float following the court decision that the land owners did not own the river bed. I was assisted in the logistics of that float by Mary Baker Eddy, owner of Baker's Crossing, friends with the Nature Conservancy, Texas Parks and Wildlife, and one of the "friendly" ranchers. Our group consisted of three couples, including Shelley and myself. Because of the expected controversy we were required to go all the way to the T P&W Devil's River State Natural Area without making landfall. The only exceptions were "islands and bars" surrounded by water.

Dolan Falls - Photo Credit: John Hoyt

Along the way we were greeted by ranchers brandishing shotguns, daring us to make a mistake. Due to a crash along the way, and resulting recovery and repair of a canoe, we didn't make it to the State Natural Area before nightfall, and were forced to clandestinely make camp in an inaccessible location. The next day we went on past the SNA after sending a message via some people at Dolan Falls to the SNA officials that we had past on down the river. We camped another night after portaging Dolan and S-Turn Falls & rapids, reaching our take out at Lake Amistad the following evening.

Portaging Dolan Falls - Photo Credit: John Hoyt

Photo Credit: John Hoyt

The Devil's River is undoubtedly the most beautiful stream in Texas, and among the best in the West. It is know as one of America's finest and most productive small mouth bass fisheries. Crystal clear, often cliff lined, with springs pouring out of the cliff all along the way. It's beauty is beyond description, far beyond that of the Guadalupe and Frio, among others. It forms the western edge of the Edwards Plateau, an amazing environment. Cultural and archaeological sites abound.

Photo Credit: John Hoyt

I smell dirty deals and insider politics associated with this announcement. Some of you have already been contacted by me re a return trip to the Devil's next spring. Looks like I might make the "first and last" float of this Texas jewel if the current information is correct, and I had better hurry at that!
"My Life Outdoors" is absolutely correct in his assessment that one cannot paddle 28 miles through rapids and waterfalls in one day, difficult in two.
The Nature Conservancy owns the adjoining property across the river at Dolan Falls. Perhaps Chris Pipes or John Karges might know something.

Photo Credit: John Hoyt

This is the greatest ripoff I have ever heard, far worse even than the Christmas Mountains and Chinati Peak fiascos. Next to Big Bend it our greatest Texas treasure! Buried in the politics must be a big money scam of monumental proportions. It's like the de facto privatization of the river bed again, like it was before the court decision, and probably with the same ranchers in cahoots with TP&W and others to accomplish it.

John Hoyt (aka Quicksilver)

Take Action NOW to keep public access.

Go to one of the two meetings avalible.

• 6:00 pm Today Oct. 20th at the Del Rio Civic Center, Mesquite Room, 1915 Veteran's Blvd.., Del Rio, TX (830) 774-8641
• 6:00 pm Tuesday, Oct. 26 at the Central Public Library, 600 Soledad, San Antonio, TX (210) 207-2500
• or E-mail Ted Hollingsworth at ted.hollingsworth@tpwd.state.tx.us

 

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Koffee Kup Family Restaurant - Hico Texas

About 30 miles southwest of Glen Rose Texas in the little town of Hico is a small café (or is it “Kafé”) called the Koffee Kup.

The Big K Burger

Located at the intersection of hwy 6 and 281 the Koffee Kup isn’t on the way to much of anything other than more small Texas towns. I first discovered the Koffee Kup while seeking a more scenic route south into the Texas Hill Country. To me the interstate serves its purpose but every now and then you just need to slow down and enjoy the countryside. That is what I was doing several years ago, around dinner time, when I first walked through the door of one of my favorite restaurants.

 
I am always on the lookout for a good hamburger and consider myself something of a hamburger connoisseur. So for me there was really only one choice on the menu. I ordered The Big K Hamburger with curly fries and a side of fried pickles.

Fried Pickles

The Big K is served open faced on a thick, somewhat crispy, homemade bun with a half pound patty that is nearly an inch thick and cooked the way you order it. Add two slices of swiss cheese… or any other cheese you like… and don’t forget to cut the mustard (unless of course you like mustard). The Big K comes with your choice of Steak fries, curly fries, or large hand battered onion rings. Add a side of hand battered fried pickles for even more fried goodness.

About the time your pants feel a little snug the waitress will come around asking about pie. The Koffee Kup serves 12 different varieties of fresh baked pies ranging from anything from cocoanut, to peanut butter, to Lemon Meringue to Black Forest pie. I ordered a slice of somewhat disappointing, cold Pecan Pie. For a place well known for their pies I guess my expectations where a little high. It was good, but not what I thought it would be.

The Koffee Kup is one of the few places still in existence that doesn’t accept credit cards. I hardly ever carry cash and rarely carry checks. Back when I first discovered the Koffee Kup I was caught unprepared having just finished a meal with no way to pay. I happened to have one emergency check with me and asked if they would take an “out of town” check. The gentleman at the front desk surprised me when he replied “If it’s good there it ought to be good here…if you want you can just mail me the money when you get back home.” It is rare that you find that much trust in anyone anymore. I told him “If I don’t pay you now I will never remember to pay you at all!” And what do you know…my check was good…even in Hico.
   

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Guadalupe River - FM 3351 to US 281 - Texas

The Guadalupe River was my first love with the outdoors. As a young child my parents would take me “toobing” on the Guadalupe and Comal Rivers near New Braunfels.  

 

If you have ever lived in Texas it is likely you have heard of “toobing the Guadalupe.” The most popular section of the Guadalupe river, and the section I have spent the most time on, is between the Canyon Lake dam and the town of New Braunfels. Any given summer weekend, thousands of intoxicated “toobers” take to the river for some summer fun. This frustrating number of toobers prompted me to find an alternative to this overcrowded River.

A few years ago I heard about the upper Guadalupe above Canyon Lake. A little further away from the population of New Braunfels the upper Guadalupe is surrounded mostly by large Texas Ranchland. While the upper Guadalupe is far from being remote it is likely you would see more deer than people on any given paddle trip.

A few years ago some friends and I decided to take a 17 mile overnight trip on what I considered a particularly beautiful section of the Guadalupe. We planned to Camp at Guadalupe River State Park about 8 miles below our put in at Sultenfuss Crossing on FM 3351. We arrived at the state park around noon and set up camp in the primitive tent area. Since we had two vehicles with us we decided to run our own shuttle. We dropped one vehicle off at Guadalupe Canoe Livery on HWY 281 where we planned to take out the next day. We then took the other vehicle with kayaks to Bergheim Campground at the put in on FM 3351.
  

 

  

This section of the Guadalupe relies mostly on springs for its flow giving it remarkable water quality. There are number of rapids along this section of the Guadalupe, most remain nameless class I to II rapids. Rock Pile rapid is the first significant rapid about one mile below the FM 3351 put in. Rock Pile is rated class II to III. Another couple of miles downstream and you will encounter Dog Leg Rapid, another class II to III that can be dangerous if not run properly. Be sure to scout and pick your line carefully.

As you begin to enter Guadalupe River state park large limestone bluffs begin to rise on River left. Because we had gotten such a late start the sun was beginning to set when we arrived at the park. The clouds were beginning to glow soft pink as the last rays of light left the limestone bluffs. We pulled up next to our campsite and hiked up the steep bank about 75 yards to our campsite.

The next morning we woke up early to finish the last 9 miles of our journey. The air was cool and crisp and the bald Cyprus trees that line this section of the river were especially beautiful. From the State Park to our take out at US Hwy 281 the river remains mostly calm with only a couple of rock garden rapids rated class I to II. When we finished our trip we arrived at Guadalupe Canoe Livery about 10 min before they opened. We waited around to pay the small take out fee so we could remain honest. We then headed into New Braunfels to eat at one of my favorite restaurants before heading home.

The best time to visit this section of the Guadalupe is early spring or late fall. Summer water levels will usually be too low to paddle. The trip we took is one of many options. This section of the Guadalupe has multiple put ins and take outs which leave a variety of options to choose from. Alternative put ins include Edge Falls Road 3.8 river miles below Bergheim Campground. Guadalupe River State Park can serve as a put in or take out and is 8 miles below the first put in. 13 miles below the put in is the old Specht’s Crossing. There is a small "park" where Old Spring Branch Road used to cross the river called Nichols Landing. Here you can access from river left at the small “Park.” Don’t leave a car parked overnight at the small cul-de-sac…I have seen many cops sitting there just waiting to give someone a ticket.

If you feel like continuing past hwy 281 you can take out at FM 311 (18.6 miles below Bergheim) or Rebecca Creek Road (23 miles below Bergheim). The last remaining 6 miles is packed with exciting rapids including Mueller Falls (class II to III) and Rust Falls (Class II to III+). Be sure you don’t miss the Rebecca Creek take out. Just a few more miles downstream and you are on Canyon Lake. From there it is several miles of open water paddling to the boat ramp.

If you are looking for boat rentals or river shuttles contact Bigfoot Canoes, Guadalupe Canoe Livery, or Bergheim Campground. We decided to run our own shuttle because Bergheim campground wanted $80 to run one for us. It is only about 19 miles by car along HWY 46 and this just seemed too much to pay for the short shuttle. They may have changed their prices since we were there last.
If you are looking for an easy river trip with the occasional challenging rapid then I recommend checking out This Section of the Guadalupe River.

Getting There:

Put In:  29°53'33.08"N  98°33'29.54"W
Take Out:  29°51'15.46"N  98°24'30.14"W
Rock Pile Rapid:  29°54'20.08"N  98°33'6.32"W
Dog Leg Rapid:  29°53'54.15"N  98°32'0.09"W
Edge Falls RD Bridge:  29°53'9.43"N  98°31'55.30"W
Guadalupe River State Park:  29°52'29.52"N  98°29'3.31"W
Nichols Landing:  29°52'46.09"N  98°26'53.71"W
Mueller Falls:  29°51'42.36"N  98°22'4.75"W
Rust Falls:  29°53'9.11"N  98°22'23.71"W
Rebecca Creek Take Out:  29°53'16.83"N  98°22'5.93"W

Optimal Water Flow for this section of the Guadalupe is between 150 and 2,000 CFS. Check the Spring Branch Flow Gage for up to date flow levels: 08167500
    

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The North Face Padda "Amphibious Shoe" - Review

The worst shoe I have ever bought. The North Face Padda “Amphibious running Shoe” is described as ”a must-have for athletes who require a stable shoe for kayaking, or rafting.” Now I enjoy my fair share of kayaking and rafting. And so I bought a pair of Padda shoes to wear mostly as a water shoe…but also considering its “amphibious” nature… a casual tennis shoe.

Well that was a mistake. The North Face Padda does not perform well as a water shoe or a dry shoe. As a water shoe the Padda does not have thick enough soles. Granted most people wear “water socks” that have barley any sole at all. But I didn’t buy a pair of water socks. I bought a pair of $100.00 shoes that are supposed to be a “running shoe.” I don’t know anyone who would dare run in their water socks. So I thought that as a running shoe the sole would help protect my feet against sharp limestone river bottoms. This was a mistake.

Secondly, as a water shoe, the traditional laces come untied when submerged underwater for any amount of time. In Texas…especially in the summer…rivers tend to flow very low. Unfortunately this necessitates a lot of dragging your boat through shallow spots. Even after tying these shoes in a double knot the constant motion of walking in the water would unite the shoe in no-time.

As a dry shoe the Padda’s still fail. The underside “drainage ports” tended to act like a sponge any time I had to step in any type of water. And I’m not talking about rivers or streams…I talking about stepping outside on a wet side walk after a light rain shower. If there is any water on the ground…no matter how little it may be…the Padda’s would soak it up. When wearing these shoes around town I found myself going out of my way to avoid impossibly shallow puddles just so my feet would stay dry.

I don’t know why…maybe I was trying to justify paying $100 for a terrible shoe…but I wore these shoes for close to 2 years. About 6 months ago the shoes began falling apart. One shoe’s “Draining Port” starting tearing until it engulfed a second drainage port creating a huge hole in the bottom of the shoe. Not long after that the side mesh began tearing making the shoes nothing more than a pair of sandals. I finally had to replace them when the one shoe’s sole completely separated from the upper shoe. To me a $100 pair of shoes should last longer than a year and a half. Not even a year and a half because I really only wore the shoes a couple of summers because the shoe is just too cold to wear in the winter.

 

The ever expanding "drainage ports"

   A whole in the upper mesh

The sole separating from the upper shoe.

I looked today to see if TNF is still making this shoe. I can’t find it on their website which gives me hope that it has been discontinued. But I continue to see the Padda’s in local retail shops and online. Recently while looking for replacement shoes I pointed to a pair of Padda’s on the shelf and told the store owner “This is the worst shoe I have ever bought.” He said “I never buy North Face Shoes…they just don’t last.” And this is in a store that barely sells anything but North Face gear. I can’t help but believe The North Face has resigned itself to live along side Old Navy and The Gap. They aren’t about quality anymore…it’s all about fashion. So if you are considering a pair of Padda’s…Please be forewarned… this shoe is a disaster.
      

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