Monday, April 26, 2010

Buck Mountian - New Mexico

While on a church retreat near Angus, NM I took a morning hike to 7,755 foot Buck Mountain. Starting at the retreat center we followed an old jeep trial into the Lincoln National forest. We looped around counter clockwise to the back side of Buck Mountain following a small stream for most of the way before heading up the west side. Once on top we found some Elk tracks and took in the view. We came back down on the east side and eventually joined up with a small residential road. I brought my camera along with me but, like an idiot, forgot the memory card. As a result the only picture I have is a cell phone pic. We spent just under two hours on the trail, traveled 3.26 miles and climbed 853 feet.



There are many more trails, and much higher peaks, in the area with the Lincoln National Forest offering many miles of trails. The highest peak in the area is Sierra Blanca Peak at 11,973 feet. I look forward to coming back to this area when I have more time to hike.
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Monday, April 19, 2010

Mount Livermore - Summit attempt - Davis Mountain Preserve, Texas

For more information please see my newest report on Mount Livermore

After much anticipation I finally made it out to The Nature Conservancy’s (TNC) Davis Mountain Preserve (DMP) in an attempt to summit Mount Livermore and Baldy Peak. The davis mountain range is the most extensive and second highest range in Texas. Mount Livermore and Baldy Peak (which sits on top of Livermore) is the tallest mountain in the Davis range at 8378 feet.

 Blue line is the jeep road, Red is the trail we followed until we were forced to turn back by the weather (detail below). Yellow is the remaining path to the summit.

Last Saturday TNC held an open day at the DMP where anyone was invited to hike the property. I called Chris Pipes, director of the DMP, and signed up for the guided hike to the summit of Livermore and Baldy Peak. I found out later the only major difference in the guided and self guided hikes was the starting point. If you come for a self guided hike you must park your vehicle at the cable gate (6320 feet) just past Upper Madera Windmill approximately 4 miles from the summit. On the guided hike you are taken nearly 2 miles further up the mountain by 4x4 to Bridge Gap. From Bridge Gap (7311 feet) you are less than 2 miles from the summit.

The morning we arrived was terribly drizzly. We were concernd the hike would be called off due to the misting rain. I was surprised when Chris told us we would go ahead with the hike unless it really started to poor rain…at which point we would need to abort no matter where we were at.

 Hiking The Limpia Chute Trail

Limpia Chute Trail

Chris had arranged for several 4x4 vehicles to take the 25 people in our group up to bridge gap. My Wife, two daughters, and I were allowed to follow in our jeep in case we needed to leave early with our five month old and to free up more room in the other vehicles.

2wd high clearance trucks can make the drive to the cable gate with little problem. Past the cable gate the drive becomes very steep necessitating 4wd. Once at bridge gap we went through a short orientation with Chris Pipes and then started off on the Limpia Chute Trail.

 Chris Pipes address the group before the hike.

The truly unique feature of Mount Livermore is the broad range of bio-diversity that is supported in its upper elevations. All of the Davis Mountains lie within the Texas Chihuahua Desert. But as you climb above 6,000 feet you slowly leave the desert scrub brush that is typical of the Davis Mountains and enter into lush pine forests. TNC calls this a “sky island” and is the main reason they have chosen to preserve this mountain paradise.

 Pine Forests in the Chihuahua desert.


 Madrone Tree

Lichan

As we slowly climbed the mountain via the Limpia Chute trail we were amazed at how thick the forest was. As you walk through the tall Ponderosa Pine you get this strange sensation that you’re not in Texas anymore. We found that the drizzly fog we were dreading actually turned the hike into a beautiful forest experience and were thankful for the cool weather.

 Limpia Chute Trailhead located at Bridge Gap (7311 feet)

The Fog was actually pleasant and gave the mountain a very majestic feel.



Before long we passed a small grove of Aspen Trees. I am told this is the southernmost living grove of aspen trees in North America. Another reason why TNC protects this beautiful land. After about 0.7 miles the Limpia Chute Trail joins back with the jeep road. The jeep road used to service the radio antennas at Baldy’s summit. One of our guides told us the very steep and dangerous road has not been used in many years as they now choose to service the antennas by chopper. As it stands now no one is allowed to drive past Bridge Gap. You can choose to hike the road all the way to the summit instead of the Limpia Chute Trail. Either way TNC suggests you descend via Limpia Chute because the jeep road is very steep and slippery.

 In the background you can see a small grove of young aspen trees.

Most of the Aspen were young saplings. These two were the largest in the grove.

Just a few hundred yards after joining the jeep road you round the corner and see Baldy Peak for the first time. Baldy peak is the highest protruding rock atop Mount Livermore and was our ultimate destination. We broke above one layer of clouds at 8000 feet only to see another layer above that. Mount Livermore and baldy peak looked quite majestic in the low lying clouds. We didn’t quite realize, however, that the upper layer was actually a thunderstorm rolling in. A half mile from the summit it began to rain. We pulled out our bright orange $3.00 ponchos I picked up at academy sports, wrapped the baby and child carrier in one and put the other two on my wife and oldest daughter.

 Our first view of Baldy peak (upper left) covered in fog

Baldy peak seen 278 feet below its summit right before we were forced to turn around.

We broke above one layer of clouds only to find a thunderstorm above that.

Rock outcropping below Baldy Peak

We started hearing distant thunder and decided we should quickly try to summit and get back down. Just then a bolt of lightning struck the radio towers on the summit only 278 feet above us. Some of the tour group was on top when this happened, after which they quickly started coming down. The lightning was enough to make us all decide to come back another time.

After waiting so long to summit I was somewhat disappointed at how close I came with no reward, but I was not about to risk my family for the prize. We started to hike the 1.67 miles back to the jeep where we could dry off and warm up. It rained on us the whole way down and did not let up until we reached the McIvor visitor center.

 McIvor Visitor Center

All in all we drove 6.63 miles and climbed 1404 feet from the McIvor visitor center (5907 feet) to Bridge Gap (7311 feet). From Bridge Gap we hiked 1.67 miles (one way) and climbed 1,089 feet stopping 278 feet below the summit (Baldy Peak 8378 feet). Before we made it all the way down we had already made plans to come back to summit.

 Our elevation gain driving to Bridge Gap

Our elevation gain on the hike to the summit.



Driving down from Bridge Gap on Madera Canyon Road. The road was soaked and much steeper then it looks in the video. It was really more of a controlled slide then a drive.

I have tried to provide as much information as possible regarding all aspects of this trip because I have found information somewhat lacking in my own web searches. Below you will find a PDF of a USGS map of the trails we took trying to summit. If you have questions regarding any aspect of this hike please leave a comment below and I will do my best to answer your questions.


USGS Map of Livermore Road, Limpia Chute Trail, And Baldy Peak Summit Trail 

For more information please see my newest report on Mount Livermore.
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Friday, April 16, 2010

Lighthouse Trail - Palo Duro Canyon, Texas

Saturday morning of our trip to Palo Duro my family and I set out to hike the parks most popular trail to the lighthouse. Palo Duro is the second largest canyon in the United States and the Lighthouse is her signature formation. Every year thousands of people set out to hike the 3 miles (6 round trip) to the base of the formation and this Saturday was no different

 Palo Duro Canyon viewed from the canyon rim.
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We set out about 9 a.m. The morning was cool and we all had our jackets on. When we pulled up to the trailhead the parking area was packed. We took one of the last spots available and wondered if we should have started out earlier.

 It was cool when we set out on the trail and we all had our jackets on.

A sign at the trail entrance warned of the heat danger and advised one gallon of water per person (and pet). I couldn’t help but notice the contradiction between the sign and the parks trail map which advised two liters per person. We had something in-between and felt confident we had enough.

 A largely ignored warning sign at the beginning of the trail.

Heading past the base of Capital peak we could already tell just how crowded it was going to be when two large boy scout groups passed us. Once again we found more mountain bikers on the trail then hikers and were nearly run over a number of times when a few came barreling around blind corners. To our amazement most of the people we encountered on the trail had no more than 20 ounces of water with them. Even the boy scout groups seemed ironically unprepared for such a long desert hike. We passed one older gentleman with an older dog in tow (again with less than 20 ounces of water between the two of them). We overheard a local warning them that he had seen dogs die on this trail before graciously offering the dog his own water.

 Capital Peak

 The backside of Capital Peak

About half way in we caught our first glimpse of the Lighthouse formation. It had already begun to warm up but the breeze was still keeping us cool. We were very thankful for the trail markers that listed our mileage every 10th of a mile.

 Our first glimpse of the Lighthouse

 The Lighthouse and Castle Peak on the left

Castle Peak

At 2.8 miles you reach the base of the Lighthouse where there is a picnic table and a bike rack. Up until this point the trail is relatively flat with the next 2/10 of a mile being the steepest and hardest. As we were going up we were relieved to find the boy scouts coming down hoping we might have the top to ourselves. The scouts were slipping and sliding on the loose steep sand rising concern for me coming down with our 5 month old on my back.

 Just below the Lighthouse

Once on top we were not alone but it was not as crowded as we had expected either. We ate lunch in the shade of the canyon walls before our oldest and I headed up to the rim of the canyon. The view from the rim is very spectacular but doesn’t transfer well to film. We spent a little less than an hour on top before beginning our three mile hike back to the car.

 Don't go on this hike seeking solitude.

Lighthouse

Looking down on the lighthouse near the canyon rim

On top of the rim it still felt somewhat cool but that quickly changed when we reached the canyon floor. The last mile of the hike back we were all pretty tired and the heat was really beginning to wear on us. A half mile before the end we finished off our water supply and thought once more about all the poor unprepared people we passed coming out. Once we reached the trail head I noticed a thermometer that read 110 degrees Fahrenheit. It was hot indeed. We got back in the jeep thankful for air conditioning.

 One of the many views from the lighthouse trail

It was very hot when we got off the trail.
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Thursday, April 15, 2010

Cocona Fabrics Gear Tester

I recived an e-mail today that said I have been chosen to test Cocona's new Xcelerator fabrics. They claim Xcelerator Fabrics perform 50% better than other similar fabrics and now I have the opportunity to put that claim to test. I do not know yet what type of gear I will be testing but should be receiving it shortly. As part of of the testing program I will be required to take standardized tests and submit blog like entries on their website. In addition I will be outlining the gears performance here on My Life Outdoors. Until then.
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Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Palo Duro Canyon - Sunflower Trail

Palo Duro canyon in the Texas Panhandle is the second largest canyon in the United States. The Canyon is close to 120 miles long and 6.2 miles wide on average, but reaches a width of 20 miles wide in some places. Its depth varies between approximately 820 feet to 997 feet. Palo Duro Canyon has been nicknamed "The Grand Canyon of Texas," due to its size and dramatic geological features. The Canyon was cut by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River which continues to cut its way through the canyon today.

 Palo Duro Canyon

Palo Duro Canyon State Park rests on the northern most section of the canyon. Sprawling over 29,182 acres of the canyon the park has a lot to offer including hikes, camping, river wadding, horseback riding, nature viewing and mountain biking.

Last week we headed out to Palo Duro Canyon and chose to camp overnight at the parks Fortress Cliff Primitive camping area. Our five month old's first camping trip, we opted for a drive up “primitive” camping spot. The area was beautiful with several trails going right past our tent. We arrived in the park close to 6:00 pm, set up our camp and then hit the Sunflower Trail. We didn’t have a whole lot of time before sun set and still hadn’t eaten dinner so the one mile (2 mile round trip) Sunflower Trail was a perfect warm up for our big hike the next day.

 Our Campsite with Fortress Cliff in the background.

Located smack dab in the middle of the canyon we found ourselves hiking alongside the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River. Small walls of red sandstone with white layers of gypsum blocked our view of the western rim but where beautiful in their own right. At several points the trail would pass through what seemed to be a forest of Texas cedar trees. Every once and a while the trees would clear enough to see views of the Eastern Rim and Fortress Cliff. The trail was well maintained with several wooden bridges crossing over the river.

 Hiking alongside the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River

 Small walls of sandstone and gypsum blocked our view of the west rim.

Red Sandstone with layers of white Gypsum

The Trail meandered through small forests of Texas cedar and other trees.

Every once and a while we would pass a break in the sandstone wall and catch a glimpse of the west rim.

We were not alone on the trail. The park is very popular with mountain bikers and we had more than five pass us during our short time on the trail. All in all we spent maybe 45 minutes on the trail before the sun began to set and our stomachs told us to head back. When I first looked at the map I turned my nose up at the Sunflower and similar trails (Rojo Grande, and Juniper Trails) because they were surrounded by park roads. I was surprised that I never noticed the roads and felt very isolated while on this short trail.

 We passed several mountain bikes along the trail.

Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River a small sandstone peak and Fortress cliff in the far background.

Park road with the west rim in the background.
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Monday, April 12, 2010

El Capitan and the Guadalupe Mountains

My last trip to the Guadalupe’s was for the sole purpose of instructing a young photography student on Landscape photography techniques. We had the opportunity to hike to Devil’s Hall and drive out to Williams Ranch taking pictures all along the way. But our goal and main purpose of the trip was to photograph El Captain at sunset. Here are a few of the shots we took of El-Capitan.

 From left to right is Shumard Peak (8615), Gudalupe Peak (8749) and El Capitan (8085). El Capitan looks highest from this angle but is actually the lowest.
This last shot was taken by the photography student and entered into a contest for which she won a gold medal.
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