Devil's Hall - Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas

Saturday I headed back out to Guadalupe Mountains National Park to do some hiking and take some pictures. With me was a photography student whom I have been working with on some landscape photography. Because the student had not hiked much before, we tried to avoid any serious elevation gain and choose to hike to Devils Hall.

Looking up we cold see the pine forests that grow in the upper elevations of Guadalupe Peak

Hiking along the dry stream bed of Pine Springs Canyon

 Along the way we spotted some Mule Deer

For the first half of our journey we followed the well maintained Guadalupe Peak horse trail. Following the Pain Springs canyon, Hunter peak loomed to the north with Guadalupe Peak to the south. As the canyon slowly narrowed and the Horse trail turned back south snaking up the mountain, we pushed on to the west following the Devil’s Hall Trail. For the next 1.1 miles the trail actually enters the dry canyon bottom of Pine Springs. From this point until you reach Devil’s Hall there is no marked or maintained trail. Large boulders occupy the dry creek bed and require quite a bit of scrambling and maneuvering if you want to stay on course. The canyon continues to narrow and become more scenic the crosser you get to Devil’s Hall. Just before the end you pass through the Devils Gate and ascend the Hiker’s Staircase. The Hiker’s Staircase is a natural rock stairway that looks as if it were built specifically for hikers on their way to Devil’s Hall. Another 100 feet and you enter the unusually narrow canyon that forms Devil’s Hall. The walls on either side look as if a skilled stone mason might have built the hall one stone at a time.

The first flight of the Hikers Stairway

The second flight of the Hiker's Stairway

Looking east through the Devil's Gate down the Hiker's Stairway

Devil's Hall

 Photography Student in Devils Hall

After passing through Devil’s Hall a NPS sign simply reads “End of Trail.” A friend and I joked that we could make the end of the trail anywhere we wanted because the sign was simply leaning against the rocks. After resting a bit we scrambled up a steep wash that lead to the top of the south side of Devils Hall. From there we could see The Devils Gate and the large cliffs leading up to Guadalupe peak. We bushwhacked across the open bowl that formed the top of Devil’s Hall and rejoined the streambed just east of the Devil’s Gate.

The Devil's Gate taken from on top of Devil's Hall

 Looking East form on top of the Devil's Hall. Devil's Gate can be seen in the lower left corner. The lower reaches of Guadalupe peak can be seen in the background.

The bushwhacking proved rather difficult due to the native Agave plants, prickly pears, Cholla and numerous other thorny plants that grow at the lower altitudes. All together we spent about 4 hours hiking the 4.2 (2.1 miles one way) miles round trip, stopping for lunch halfway.

 Agave Plants where very numerous once you left the trail

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Nueces River, Texas

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The Little Mountain That Could.

I will be leaving soon for a much anticipated trip to summit county Colorado. I am taking a group of families to ski at Ski Cooper outside of Leadville Colorado. Ski Cooper is a small resort in the San Isabel National Forest. Taking up only 400 acres and consisting of only 26 runs and 5 lifts (2 of which are beginner lifts) Ski Cooper is not your average resort. But it is not below average either. To be honest, I hesitate to tell you about it at all. You see I grew up skiing at Ski Cooper back when barely anyone knew it existed. It has always been a great, friendly, uncrowned, and affordable mountain for me and my family. It’s our little secret mountain where we can go at high season and still avoid the crowds.

Fortunately for Ski Cooper, but unfortunately for us, all that is changing. Every year now it seems more and more people are discovering Ski Cooper, and every year the crowd grows. Its saving grace is the fact that most turn their noses up at its size. But don’t let its size fool you. Ski Cooper is my favorite place to ski in the entire world. Known for its abundant real snow, rich history, and prime location, It’s the kind of place that grows on you. A place you come to know, love, and dream about when you aren’t there.

It all started back in world war II. In 1942, near the Pando, CO railroad stop, Camp Hale was built as the training site for the 10th Mountain Division’s ski troopers. The Army picked this site for a number of reasons including: nearby rail transportation, rugged mountainous terrain, and an average 250 inch annual snowfall that assured a six-month ski training season at nearby Ski Cooper.

In 1945, following two years of rigorous training, the 10th Mountain Division was ordered to Italy to spearhead the advance of the U.S. Fifth Army. “In a series of actions that included Riva Ridge and Mt. Belvedere, the 10th Mountain Division breached the supposedly impregnable Gothic Line in the Appenines and secured the Po River Valley to play a vital role in the liberation of northern Italy.” By May 1945 the 10th Mountain Division had lost 992 ski troopers killed in action, and 4,000 wounded. “The highest casualty rate of any U.S. Division in the Mediterranean.”

Following the end of the war, Ski Cooper was opened to the public and continues to operate today. I started skiing at Ski Cooper back in 1986 and have gone back many years since. Its been three years now since the last time I saw this old friend. I can hardly wait to be there again.

But don’t tell anyone I told you.

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Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico

Late last year we took my daughter and her cousins to the famous Carlsbad Caverns. We rented the electronic audio tour and opted to follow the natural entrance into the caves. We passed by the amphitheater seating where visitors can sit to watch the bats emerge from the cave at dusk. The bat flight program is open Memorial Day through mid-October. Don’t expect to come and get pictures of the bats…no cameras are allowed during bat flight. Having come late in the year we did not get to see the bats leaving the cave. We did, however, see many cave swallows flying in and out of the entrance.

 Amphitheater for bat viewing

Anyone who visits Carlsbad has the option to enter the cave in two ways. One is by the elevators that were installed in1955. The other is the Natural Entrance. Following the long, paved, switchbacks deep into the mouth of the cave via the Natural Entrance is a rewarding experience and the only way to see the cave in my opinion. The twilight zone (that is the zone between the farthest reaches of natural light, and total darkness) is truly a unique sight worthy of the time it takes to enter through the natural entrance. 

Looking down into the Natural Entrance

looking back up out of the natural entrance

Most of the rest of the cave is pretty typical. The Big Room features some of the largest most impressive formations and can be toured separately from the natural entrance. I was unable to photograph many of the features in the cave due to the low light levels.

 Lion's Tail formation

The Park requires everyone to exit by the elevators making this underground hike quite easy. It’s all downhill. Be sure to wear good walking shoes with lots of grip. The cave is a very damp place and the trail can be steep and slippery when wet. There are many other options available at Carlsbad Caverns including, spelunking, primitive cave tours, and surface hikes. If you want something other than the mainstream cave tour, I recommend the Slaughter Canyon Primitive Cave tour.

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Texas Storm

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Santos Taqueria - Mason, Texas

In the little town of Mason, Texas on hwy 87 there is a little restaurant called Santos Taqueria. Built out of an old gas station, Santos seems to fade into the background of this small rustic town. If your not looking for it, its likely that you will miss it. Once you taste it, however, you will never forget it.

It’s not big, nor is it fancy; there is more seating available outside than there is in, and its likely to be full any given day of the week. There may be a wait and a line out the door but Santos is worth your time. I remember the first time I ate at Santos. Some friends and I had gone down to the Llano river for a overnight paddle trip and stopped in Mason for lunch on the way down. We ordered some Blanco Quaso and chips and it was love at first bite. We spent that night camping on the banks of the river, cooking fresh fish over an open fire. But Santos was on all of our minds and kept coming up in conversation. All of us could hardly wait till we could go back. So the next day, fresh of the water, dirty, smelly, and even a little wet we went straight back to Santos for dinner and ordered the same things we had for lunch the day before.

 

Fajita Gordita from Santos Taqueria

 
So this last week, after working up an appetite on Enchanted Rock, I knew Mason was only 45 minutes away. Well worth the time it would take to get there I headed Northwest from Fredericksburg. This time, thanks to Agion Active, only half of me smelt bad. I ordered the Beef Fajita Gordita and sat down to enjoy my meal alone. Every bite was a little taste of heaven. Two Gordita pockets stuffed full of beef, green peppers, and grilled onions. Add a little sour cream on top and you will know why Santos has been recognized by Texas Monthly Magazine and the Austin Chronicle. One Gordita pocket was enough to fill me up. I put the other in a to go box hoping it would last the three hour drive home, so I could eat it another time.

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I would vote for you!!

As part of testing the Active Agion anti-stink shirt all testers are entered into a contest to win an outdoor adventure vacation for two from Glacier Guides. Winners are voted on by you. I humbly ask for your votes in winning this great vacation. To vote for me go to the My Life Outdoors Active Agion Experiment Page, below my picture, on the right hand side, there is a place to vote. I will thank you in advance.

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Active Agion Anti-Stink Test - Enchanted Rock, Texas

This last Friday I wore the Active Agion test shirt as a base layer during a day hike at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. I climbed to the three highest points in the park, summiting the highest point twice. Up and down four different times with a sum total elevation gain of approximately 1500 to 2000 feet. You can read the full report of my Enchanted Rock hike. By the end of the day I was worn out and had sweated quite a bit. I stunk, but I couldn’t really tell. With the wind blowing and being out of breath…I began to doubt I stunk at all. It wasn’t until the day was over and I had removed my jacket that I began to really smell my left side. My right side barely stunk at all. My only complaint is that I only have half a shirt.

Here is a video of my time at Enchanted Rock testing the shirt. The video is worth a watch (in my opinion) Even if you are not interested in the Agion's Anti-stink technology. There are many shots of Enchanted rock that are better suited to video. Enjoy

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, Texas from Steven Smith on Vimeo.

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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, Texas

Last Friday I drove down to Enchanted Rock State Natural Area.

Enchanted Rock is a enormous pink granite (affectionately known as Texas Pink Granite) batholith located 15 miles north of Fredericksburg, Texas. The rock received its name from the Tonkawa Indians who believed they could see ghost fires near the summit after nightfall. The Tonkawa Indians also reported strange creaking and groaning coming from the rock at night. We now know these sounds are from the rock heating during the day and rapidly cooling at night. The parks website explains how “a conquistador captured by the Tonkawa escaped by losing himself in the rock area, giving rise to an Indian legend of a ‘pale man swallowed by a rock and reborn as one of their own.’ The Indians believed he wove enchantments on the area, but he explained that the rock wove the spells. ‘When I was swallowed by the rock, I joined the many spirits who enchant this place.’"

 Enchanted Rock as viewed from the summit trailhead

I had visited the park once before in my early teens and have fond memories of that time. Since I was going to be in the general vicinity I decided a trip to Enchanted Rock had to be in order. I had budgeted most of the day for hiking and playing in the park but didn’t really have a set plan on what to do or where to go in the park. I knew I had to take the path to the summit first thing, but after that, I decided to go see whatever caught my eye.

 

The path to the Summit Trail and Echo Canyon Trail

 

Turkey Peak began to catch my eye as I headed up the summit trail

 
Hiking to the summit you gain just under 500 feet of elevation in less than 6/10 of a mile. It is a fast, steep climb with rewarding views as soon as you start on the trail. From a distance Enchanted rock looks like a gentle dome. Don’t let it fool you… it is quite a workout. Take your time and plenty of water. Before I had even reached the top I started to envy Turkey peak to the southeast. Eager to head to Turkey Peak I missed many of the wonderful things the wide summit has to offer. I spent a few minutes on top taking in the views and then immediately started to descend the southeast face toward the base of turkey peak. The southeast side of enchanted rock was decidedly much steeper then the summit trail and I struggled to keep myself upright as my boots began to slip. Had there been any moisture present at all I would have found myself sliding down the rock face.

 

Enchanted Rock from five miles away

Enchanted Rock from two miles away

 

Looking down on Turkey Peak from the Summit of Enchanted Rock

Once at the base of Turkey peak I began to climb to the top, backtracking many times trying to find the best way to the top. There was no obvious trail and more than once I ran into a solid wall of rock. By this time the sky had become overcast and the wind began to pick up quite a bit. I took in the views of Enchanted Rock and the park headquarters below. I then ducked down below some of the rocks to block the high winds and opened my pack to enjoy my lunch. Having brought along a turkey sandwich and I could think of no better place to enjoy it then on Turkey Peak.

 

Enchanted Rock viewed from Turkey Peak

 From atop Turkey Peak hikers can be seen heading up the Summit Tail. This is my best example of scale. You really don't realize how big the Enchanted Rock is. How ever big it looks in these pictures...it is much bigger.

Heading down turkey peak I cut back across the southeast face of Enchanted Rock stopping to play in the large boulders that littered its base. My intention was to head over to Little Rock (enchanted rock’s little sister) but quickly found an obstacle in the form of a large rounded wall of rock jutting up from the side of Enchanted Rock. I tried to go below and above the wall with no luck. Finally I found an area that allowed me to safely scale the side and continue my journey to little rock.

 

Large boulders on the southeast side with Turkey Peak in the background

 Large boulders on the southeast side. To give an idea of scale I could stand upright inside the triangle shaped hole at the bottom of this picture.

 The large rounded wall of rock that stood in my way. The flat vertical side was at least seven to ten feet high

 

Water's path coming down from the round rock wall

 

Joining the Echo Canyon Trail I followed it and then broke away to reach the top of Little Rock. Little Rock’s path to the summit is not quite as steep or hard as the path to Enchanted Rocks but demanding none the less. Wandering around I took in views of Enchanted Rock and started to notice something I had missed. Apparently there is a cave on Enchanted Rocks North side. It’s not so much a cave as a passage under the large boulders that litter that side of the rock. I decided my trip wouldn’t be complete without finding the cave.

 

 Looking east from the Little Rock summit, more hikers can be seen heading up the summit trail. Turkey Peak is poking up just beyond Enchanted Rock.

 Enchanted Rock as viewed from the Little Rock summit

Heading down and then back up I cut across to the north side of Enchanted Rock and began to poke around in and under the large boulders. I ran into two young men who had come prepared with flashlights and intentions to follow the cave to its other opening on the eastern side of the rock. Having not brought a flashlight, I followed the cave as far as I could with the ambient light from the narrow shafts above. It quickly became too dark to see and thus forcing me to turn back. As an alternative I followed the path of the cave up above, scrambling along the large boulders that formed the caves ceiling. Every once and awhile I ran across a deep shaft and even caught the sound of the guys voices and a the light glimmer of their flashlights. Following the chaotic path, often having to turn around at impassable deep shafts, I managed to find the other opening where the two men emerged. We talked for a while about the cave and eventually parted ways. Having made my way have way down the rock I decided to continue that path and scrambled down the remaining distance.
By this time I was quite tired having gone up and back down three different peaks four times and spending a large amount of time in the caves. Reaching the bottom I followed the perimeter loop trail over to Echo Canyon Trail and passed over the canyon one final time heading to my car.

 Entrance to Enchanted Rock's cave

 

One of the views inside the cave

Another view from inside the cave

"Following" the "path" above the cave

 Deep shaft down which I could hear the people and see flashlight inside the cave. This is one of the many shafts that were too big and deep to pass. I had to find another way around.

 

Looking down from among the rocks above the cave. Its a long, steep, way down on this side of enchanted rock.

There is so much to see and do in the park. You can literally play for hours among the many boulders, trails, and cave like passages located in the park. The park offers technical rock climbing all over the park with more than 45 established rock climbing routes. There are two other significant peaks (Freshman Mountain and Buzzards Roost) that I never got to touch.

 Rock Climbers on Enchanted Rock's north face.

 

The two peaks I didn't climb: Freshman Mountain (foreground) and Buzzards Roost (background)

My advice… budget a lot of time, bring a flashlight, and be prepared to wear yourself out. Be sure to check with the park office for information about the cave and rock climbing.

If you would like to see these pictures and more go to my Enchanted Rock Picasa Album

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